My visit to Astrakhan proved to be engaging one in more ways than one.
As the plane decended into Moscow in the early evening, the view from the window revealed a blanket of white, as all was covered in snow. Three hours later, having had plenty of time to exchange terminals by using the free airport bus, and thus avoid the robbing charge of 60 USD suggested by the unscrupulous taxi drivers for the 5 kilometer or so ride, I was walking out onto the runway toward my third flight of the day. And thus I became aware that the ground here was a frozen sheet of ice.
Two and a half hours south, to the delta of the River Volga near the Caspian Sea, the largest lake in the world, brought me into a quite different climate though, and the next day I had to buy myself some sunglasses.
It had proved impossible to find any agency there advertising in English, and my girlfriend had booked our apartment from a Russian site. At the airport I was met by the apartment owner, a very smartly dressed and pretty blonde twentysomething girl, who drove me to the other side of the city while she sang along to some Russian pop music blasting from her C.D. player, while weaving in and out of the wide roads avoiding potholes. It was quite amusing. The apartment, though in an old block of flats, was fantastic. It had only just been refurbished, with new floors, carpets, furniture and bathroom. It was now 1.00 am, and I got some sleep as my girlfriend was arriving by train in about five hours time.
When getting into a taxi the next day, only one of the doors opened in the back of the ancient Lada. This car had to be 30 years old. Most of the vehicles here were of the same stamp, and it rattled inside as the driver drove in a straight line over the many potholes. The odd new vehicles on the road in contrast, looked like they were being driven by drunks as they weaved in huge arcs to remain on flat surfaces.
To continue.......
I had wanted to see a different Russia to what I had witnessed in this country's third largest city, Volgograd, and this was certainly different.
Volgograd was a modern, vibrant place, the people having a real sense of purpose, in fact it was like any large city in Europe. The ladies there dressed in a classy fashion, and the younger girls in their late teens and early twenties strutting around with the most amazing poise, sophistication and elegance. They looked like they had went to schools of etiquette for years, like the daughters of millionaires. I have travelled around a little, but have never seen women like this. It was most evident in bars and restaurants when they were dressed for the evening.
Astrakhan in contrast, looked like it had changed little since the communist years. Men sat outside the blocks of flats drinking lager out of 2 litre plastic bottles. Some were dressed in suits that looked like they had been handed down through generations. In between the blocks of flats were what appeared to be older dwelling places, houses in clusters of in between five and twenty. These caught my eye, because they were made out of wood, with corrugated metal roofs. They looked ancient. And then, every now and then, in between these wooden houses, there was an impressive looking brick built home, resembling the new houses that are built here in England. I assumed that people were buying these old shacks quite cheaply, having them demolished, and then building a nice modern house on the land.
What hit me the most though, was the vast profusion of litter lying about everywhere. Plastic beer bottles, cans, paper, plastic wrappers, cigarette boxes. They must just discard them without care, and it was obvious that no one was assigned to clear it up as there were vast amounts, everywhere.
The centre of the city was quite pleasant, and had a nice square, like a park, with the old Astrkhan Kremlin behind. The streets behind this had beautiful old buildings, but in a sorry state of disrepair, and actually reminded me of towns I had seen in Cuba, crumbling masonry with paint flaking off.
The young ladies here did dress up, but more like the ones I had seen in Kiev, in more of a casual style of fashion than that described relating to Volgograd. But they were of course every bit as pretty, and I wondered what percentage would have desires to meet and marry western men. Perhaps this is untapped territory, I do not know. But everyone seemed quite happy and contented in this strange city.
We spent two days at the home of my girlfriends mother, and so mamma and me had the opportunity to get to know each other through translation. We liked each other very much.
I enjoyed the Russian food, and was subjected to the tradition of eating endless small portions with shots of neat vodka in between. After an hour of this, my head was swimming. I had heard about sturgeon and was keen to try it, and there it was on the table, cured, and cut into bite sized portions. It was the most delicious fish that I had ever tasted, and it had the strange texture of the finest turkish delight. These fish apparently are huge, up to two metres long and are famous for their caviar. Being a fly fisherman myself, I wondered if I could obtain a licence and or permit on another visit to legally fish for one of these monsters.
And that was Astrakhan guys.
Everyone has their own taste. People drive for miles to eat Carp at Rulo, Nebraska. There they score the bones, cook it hard, and the fish is crunchy, I do not like it that way but many do. The Chinese would rather eat carp than catfish. The biggest problem with the carp is the bones for me not the flavor. Of course there is what I believe is called the mud line which is a streak of darker meat running down each side of the fish that should be remove if you do not like a strong fish flavor. I would still prefer catfish and live in the middle of the United States so I am not very well versed on the salt water species. I have been on camping trips where you eat what you catch. Gar is even a very tasty fish but it is a bear to get the skin off of them.
yes oz there are really two types of fish, where you are brought up is what you prefer,
personally fresh water fish to me i cannot stand unless its smoked, we call it mud fish here,, i have caught plenty of trout in my time sitting around the 5 and 7 pound mark, either rainbow or brown trout and both taste like crap to me if I'm not hungry,, then there's Salmon, but when this species comes in from the sea,, that touch of salt,, its divine..
but really one can cook salt water fish as is and any fool can but mud fish takes a good chief to give it the right taste,, and sometimes I'm amazed its really fresh water fish,, its very much the chief when it comes to such fish.
very interesting tringa, i am traveling to russia for a few months in five weeks,, i am looking forward to see what differences there are to Ukraine.
the litter or should i say glass in Ukraine was shocking,, there's just no way i would let my children play in most of those places,,it would be the main injury to kids i would think,, actually i was amaze how few children i saw,,
don't lease people breed or are the kids locked in doors?
Ye i was amazed with all the rubbish littered in the city I visited in Ukraine, beautiful walk ways and scenery and then this huge amount of trash scattered all along the river banks and in scenic spots and you could tell it had been there along time. Obviously no city workers are paid to tidy up at all and the people just take it for the norm.The city was Uzhgorod they ladies very well dressed you drive by this really run down area and then this beauty walks along the pavement and she could easily look good anywhere in the world. I noticed alot of underage drinking and was told its quite
easily got for even young kids.
I did not mean to imply that I do not like salt water fish only that I am not well versed on them by species. When I go to a restaurant to me fish is fish and tea is tea and they can't expect me to make an intelligent pick out of a mile long list of different kinds of either. There is not much food that I do not like. I am not crazy about sour Kraut but if it is on a buffet I will take some and eat it just to make sure that I still do not like it. The only point I was making is that just because Danny thinks all of the food in Aztrakan tastes like crap does not mean that everyone would see it this way.
If I cook fish I fry it in butter and add only salt and Cajun seasoning but I agree smoked salmon or trout is excellent. If someone else cooks it I will be happy with the way it is cooked.
Land of oz,
Hi, what you write is as usual, balanced and common sense.
I have fished most of my life, both for salt water species, and also freshwater game fish, namely, brown trout, rainbow trout, and salmon, but I am only interested in fishing for species that I can keep and eat.
Fish such as carp, pike, etc are not considered good food in England. Sturgeon is not really available here, though it is served in restaurants in France. This fish was delicious, and I have tasted many kinds of fish including a few that are considered as 'crap' and including pike.
Sturgeon is though, danny3777, not carp. One resembles a goldfish, has scales, and the other is scaleless and lookes more like a shark. Carp tastes of mud unless it is kept in fresh water for 3 days after being caught, and sturgeon is considered a delicacy, not only for it's caviar, but also for it's meat.
Well guys the only fishing I do is GIRLS.......hopefully they are not in water!!! They are not always biting...maybe it is my bait....but what I do know is each is an individual and what works with one does not always work with others!!!!
How is russia way out in the sticks tringa????? I don't think I am too much the adventurer, my girls are usually close to large areas. I find it interesting to hear stories of guys out in FSU countries in their pursuits. Makes you feel like you were there. Thanks tringa, I hope to post my thoughts soon while I am in moldova and odessa.
You know how it goes Beemer the good fishermen never tell you what to use for bait or where to throw your line in. But the ones that can't catch any have a lot to say including precise instructions and a discussion of how low the mentality of the fish are.
Beemer, my man, you gotta score on this trip, you're getting a year older each time!
The city girls, wow, I described them as they were in Volgograd, electric, all like Paris Hilton, dressed for the ball. I will never, as long as I live, forget those images. They looked and acted like movie stars from the forties. None of them though, over about the age of 28.
Could I trust one of these girls, or reach her heart? I dont think so.
actually the best baits over here now are the smelly rubber ones you guys use in the states for those horrible mud fish,, and the best place is in the water, preferably salt.
but beemer don't go listening to others,, the last thing you want is a smelly rubber thing:)
beemer, why have you not looked at Russia itself? kind of wondering.
the women i met in Ukraine always seem to have something to hide.
very difficult to get good honest answers from them..
as if they have said it all before..
like wouldn't Moldova be a far better prospect away from the normal Ukrainian run everyone dose..
Kiwi...I did start off in Russia...the bigger towns only but girls never seem to pan out at all and I got tired of police stopping every block to see my papers...you see I got the olive skin...totally un-russian. I got to admit the girls did dress up more fashionable in ruusia than girls in ukraine(more heeled boots). Which is better(or worse) not showing up always or having something to hide????
I am trying out moldova for first time soon and have 5 girls to meet and they seem to be more friendly than the ukrainian girls I am set to see. I did notice quite a few girls from moldova speak good english, at least ones I've spoke with.
Tringa..thanks for the thought...with my new attitude(selfish), I will definately score....now if I could only find one that has mutual interests and chemistry....great!!!! I don't know if other guys have felt as I do but this trip feels so much different than any other trip( this is my 5th), hopefully my most successful.....ok ok...in the past I always said a successful trip is one you get home safely with your health...but eventually success get measured
differently.
"The city girls, wow, I described them as they were in Volgograd, electric, all like Paris Hilton, dressed for the ball. I will never, as long as I live, forget those images. They looked and acted like movie stars from the forties. None of them though, over about the age of 28. "
I was absolutely taken aback by a certain experience I had in Lviv (Ukraine) at the train station in January.
INSIDE the train station as I waited for my lady to buy tickets I glanced around. The style of the ladies there, but not JUST the ladies, even older people and those who were obviously quite poor and wearing rags - and even the arcitecture of the very ornate train station itself - ALL looked like something out of the 1930's or 1940's - It looked like a perfect movie scene that it would have taken a Hollywood studio a million dollars to recreate.
jetmba,
perhaps this is one of those reasons why we view this whole thing as so romantic, stepping back in time a little, dating a pretty, unwestern, younger lady, who has principles and values of previous generations?