I'm in Kiev with the missus for a few days in August. I'm wondering, though, wether to stay in the centre or on the outskirts. At first, I was going to go for a Kreschatik/Lesi Ukranki apartment, but then I realised that I've never actually been anywhere outside the city centre (i.e., never done any "sight seeing"), and I know she wants to see some sights. I'm guessing most sight-seeing is out of the centre, so I'm wondering if it's better to stay on the outskirts - perhaps the Hydropark/Livoberezhna area (which I'm told is pretty picturesque).
I can get to and from Kiev, and get around the city, but that's where my knowledge ends.
Muzzy: I found that being in Kiev or Kharkov, it did not matter to me where I stayed as long as it was very near the Metro. You can get anywhere in just a few minutes for the change you find in the the couch or bouncing in the dryer.
It seems to me, that most of the places people like to visit for sight-seeing in Kyiv are fairly near the center. Outside of the old city (roughly, the neighborhood within a mile or so of the Maidan), you have mostly Soviet-style concrete apartment towers, and industrial areas -- which is not to say, that there aren't some pleasant neighborhoods.
BTW, though Lesi Ukrainki is pretty central, I find the area rather unpleasant, probably because it is modern and drab, with a big volume of car traffic. For about the same dollar, I can get apartments farther north in neighborhoods that are more attractive and convenient. Basseynaya street is my "southern limit."
ADVANTAGES OF STAYING OUTSIDE THE CENTER: Apartments cost about half as much (many websites only list apartments in the center, but I have seen a few that show apartments scattered all over Kyiv). You have a better chance of finding a big and reasonably priced grocery nearby, if you prefer to cook at the apartment. You get a better understanding of how average people live in Kyiv.
ADVANTAGES OF STAYING IN THE OLD CITY NEAR KRESCHATIK: You're never very far from the metro. There are lots of beautiful neighborhoods, churches, and old residential buildings. There is a plethora of restaurants, and places to exchange currency. All of the metro lines cross nearby, so whichever line you want to take, you won't need very much time to reach it.
As Rodan said, wherever you stay, it is best to be within a 10 or 15 minutes walk of metro station. A lot of people in Kyiv live a few kilometers from the nearest station. And even if you are near, the metro is not always convenient -- a few years ago, I made a trip on one of the two western legs (unfortunately, I don't remember which); though it was mid-afternoon, when I didn't expect the metro to be very busy, the train was packed like a cattle car, and it was a very long ride. In August, when many apartments have no hot water, I wouldn't care to take frequent rides on that line ;)
I have seen some pictures of some places closer to the river but haven't stayed there. I would say since you like a bit of an adventure go for it and let me know how it goes, I should be there July 20th for a couple days then back to Sumy for a few days.
For those that do plan to use the Metro, Go online and copy a station map showing the different lines, the stations and where to make transfers. It will help knowing where you are going and where to tranfer. It is very simple to do, but you do not want to stand out,keep foreign language quiet and to a minimum, avoid looking confused in the stations. Keep you wallet and passport in your front pants pockets with your hands covering them. Have small money in a separate pocket to buy tokens. If you can't get a seat, stand to the sides of the car, so that teams of pick pockets don't surround you and feign loosing their balance and go through your pockets. These crews are well organized and come at you from different directions. If you find yourself feeling as though you are being herded,,, you probably are. Just crowd your way away from what your instinct tells you isn't right. Better to seem a little rude that to loose your passport. These people rely on stealth and being anonomous. If they appear to be predators and conferderated, they will not last long.
I had a similar situ on the Paris Metro once, guy pretenced to drop a coin in front of me, made one hell of a meal, whilst getting in my way, to pick it up just as I felt a hand around my back (wallet) pocket ..... my wallet remained with me I hasten to add.
When in such places, even on a warm/hot day, I tend to wear a light jacket if only for the selection of more pockets, the wallet either goes in the front pants pocket, as you say, or in an inside jacket pocket.
Matin:
Jacket pocket is not good. I was wearing a Levi jacket with the pockets buttoned and a canvas rain jacket over it. After my altercation, the bottons were open and my passport was in one of the pockets. The guy who was stalling me while the doors were open to get off got knocked on his ass out the car and the other three were going through the pockets. I was jammed up so tight, it was my forearm in his throat that cleared the jam. They were after the small money I kept in my buttoned pocket. I am quite sure they were at the street level when I bought the tokens. They might have gotten 5 hyrvnas, enough to share a beer. If they had gotten my passport I would have kept the guy on the ground with more force. The guy that went out the car was the first to attemp my jacket pocket. I hope the others clowned him and wouldn't share the beer with him.....